Beijing in late October 2012

Photo Gallery: Beijing Sightseeing

Watch Tower at Mutian Yu Great Wall

Highlights:
Great Wall at Mutian Yu
Summer Palace
Tienanmen Square
Palace Museum (Forbidden City)
Temple of Heaven
Beijing Public Transportation
Super Fast trains of China

Dome of Temple of Heaven

With 15 Metro lines now crisscrossing Beijing, one can visit most of Beijing's attractions without a tour/guide.  In my experience, you can see and do a lot more on your own, with more flexibility and less time.  You of course have to do more homework and be prepared to take some chances - like being lost, or missing something important.  Other interesting places in Beijing I could have visited - Lama Temple, Ancient Observatory, Hutongs and the Olympic Village.  

Tuesday, October 30, 2012: On my previous trips to China, although my port of entry / exit was always Beijing; I didn't actually visit the city.  This time, I decided to spend a couple of days in Beijing first, before going to my destination - Nanchang in the south.

I reached Beijing Airport (PEK) around 4:30 PM.  The sprawling Terminal 3 gets your feet moving with about a mile walk, after sitting in one place for 11 hours or so during the flight.  After a quick immigration, you ride automated people mover to the main terminal for baggage pick up and customs.  It was already getting dark, but a near full moon would rise shortly - yesterday being the harvest moon.  The weather was clear and not too cold at the moment.

Before I left the airport, I had to do one more thing:  I needed to get a "real" paper train ticket to get on the train to Nanchang.  There is a Train Ticket Window at the airport (Terminal 3 Departure Level, Area K - far left when you enter the terminal.)  After checking my passport, they printed me the ticket for 5Y -- Super Fast Train Z67, leaving Beijing West Railway Station on November 1 at 20:06, reaching Nanchang the following morning at 07:32.  Check one item off my To Do list.

Because I had planned to use public transportation for sightseeing, I selected a hotel that was close to Dongzhimen Metro Station (last stop for Airport Express, and on Line 2, which loops around Beijing.  And a major transportation hub/bus terminus.)  Airport Express leaves right from the airport, and in about half an hour, takes you to Dongzhimen station for 25Y.  (Zhimen Dajie is a major East-West Boulevard, north of the city.  Dong = East.  Xi = West.  Therefore, Metro station on the west side on Line 2 is called Xizhimen.)

Clear signs in English direct you to the Airport Express station via glass encased ramps - UP ramp from Arrival, DOWN ramp from the Departure area.  I purchased a "Yikatong" smart card for 100Y (20Y deposit + 80Y ticket.)  Smart card can be returned for full refund anytime.  Other than the Airport Express, fare on the rest of the metro system is flat 2Y per trip, regardless of distance.  Transfers between metro lines are free, unless you exit the station.  Bus fares are currently discounted 60% to encourage use of Yikatong, instead of tokens.  Yikatong is also accepted at some supermarkets and post offices.  No need to carry coins or tokens.  Works for me!

After a quick security check of my bags, I entered the train station, and walked down one level to the platform for Airport Express.  The train departed within minutes and after a brief stop at Terminal 2, proceeded to Sanyuanqiao (transfer to Line 10) and Dongzhimen (last stop, transfer to Line 2) - about half an hour trip.

My apartment hotel - Seasons Park Apart Hotel Beijing - aka Cosmopolite, No.36B Dongzhimenwai Street, Beijing 100027  - had pretty good reviews on Expedia - with one caveat: it was difficult to find.  I had therefore studied the map (I thought), and knew that it was about half a kilometer East from Exit C of Dongzhimen station.  I had to go East, past McDonald's and turn right to reach the hotel.

Then, the fun began!  I remembered how lost I was the last time - when just outside the airport terminal, I could find no one who understood a word of English or to help me find a shuttle bus.  This time, I was several miles away from the airport; in the middle of the city; I knew no one; it was getting dark; and the hotel was difficult to find.  I was hoping to find someone who can read or speak English to help me out, unless I can find it on my own.

At Dongzhimen, the train platform was several levels underground.  One level up on an escalator brought me to the exit from the station, but I saw signs only for Exits A and B.  I asked the security guard where Exit C was.  In Chinese and a lot of hand signals, she directed me to Exit E, about 50 steps up to the Transportation Hub (no escalator) - I had to climb with my heavy luggage.  As I found out later, I was supposed to exit the station out to a sidewalk, then down towards Exit E a few steps away, and then... I got lost.  Actually, I had to enter Exit E as if to take Line 13, but instead of entering the fare gates, continue under Dongzhimen street over to the South side to Exit C.

As soon as I stepped out of the station, a taxi driver offered to take me to the hotel.  I showed him the address.  He called the hotel for directions, and quoted me 150Y.  I knew it couldn't be more than 10-15Y based on the distance, and declined his offer.  I could see McDonald's right across the street (so was Exit C.)  I was at Exit B and walked towards the intersection, which was to the West --exactly the opposite direction-- to ask someone.  Nearby police officers knew no English, so that didn't help.  I tried to stop some pedestrians, but no help.  I saw a store with an English sign further West across the street, so I went there to see if someone can help me in English, but the store was closed.  I didn't want to venture too far away from the train station without knowing exactly where the hotel was.  It was getting chilly, too.  Now I began to wonder what to do.  

Just then a young girl spotted me standing there puzzled, and asked me in English, if I needed help.  Thank god, I thought.  She didn't know where the hotel was either, but called the hotel and gave me the correct directions.  Since she was on her way to the train station, she walked me back to Exit C (finally!) and asked me to continue beyond in the same direction for about 15 minutes.  She also wrote down, in Chinese, name of a nearby landmark hotel.  By then, moon was rising right in front, so I knew that I was now going East as I should.   The buildings actually had numbers clearly marked.  At Building 36, I turned right, and after asking a couple of more people, reached the hotel building.  There was a 7-11 sign at the corner - which would have been much easier for me to find.  The hotel was in a posh, gated residential neighborhood, with well maintained lawns, lit walkways and tennis courts - except there were no signs for the hotel outside.  My spacious 1 bedroom with kitchenette, bathroom, TV and internet was on the 9th floor (prepaid via Expedia) had a large window facing East - I saw moon rising in front (and sun next morning.)  I also obtained a tourist map of Beijing from the front desk, so I was all set for sightseeing the next two days.  I could finally relax a bit, take a shower and sleep peacefully.  Enough adventure for one day.

October 31:  It turned out to be almost the last chance to visit the Great Wall at Mutian Yu this year.  Even the restrooms at the Wall close for winter on Nov 1.

Of the four popular locations to visit the Great Wall near Beijing, the closest is Badaling (70 KM northwest) where most guided tours take you.  It is most commercialized and can be crowded.  You can even venture there on your own, if you wish, by bus or train.  

The farthest two (each 110 KM away northeast) are Simatai and Jinshanling - Ideal hikes begin at Jinshanling, going east four hours to Simatai (Bus #980.)  Simatai has been closed for repairs since 2011, and is not scheduled to open until mid-2013.  Day trips to Jinshanling only cost $30 round trip, but that didn't sound worthwhile.  So I chose Mutian Yu, which is about 90 KM northeast of Beijing, and much more scenic. Its claim to fame was that President Clinton visited it in 1998, and used a cable car to ride to the top.  Most touristy places in China seem to have cable cars to take you to the top - hiking is not that popular.  

Dongzhimen Public Transport Hub is connected to Dongzhimen metro station at the surface level.  From here, you take #916 Express Bus to Mutian Yu Great Wall.  The bus actually terminates at Huairou Beidajie in Huairou District about 70 KM away; and then a local bus #936 supposedly goes to Mutian Yu.  The first 916 bus leaves at 6 am, and every 20 minutes thereafter.  When I reached the bus stop, the 6:20 bus was loading and the next one was waiting right behind.  Bus left promptly and proceeded via highway to Huairou through farm lands.  It was a clear day, and sun was yet to rise.  

Because we were going against the rush hour traffic, the trip was speedy until we reached Huairou town.  Navigating through busy surface streets and traffic lights, the bus finally made it to the terminus.  I found out where to catch bus 936, but also that it wouldn't take me all the way to Mutian Yu Wall.  Another option: share a minivan for 25Y each way, but I'd have to wait for the van to fill up.  I was the only tourist on my bus, so it could be a long wait.  After haggling with a private taxi for 100Y round trip, I was on my way to Mutian Yu.  Once outside Huairou, this two lane winding road passed through little towns, where they still make bricks by the hundreds, the skill they learned centuries ago while building the wall.  

Within half an hour, we reached the parking lot at the Wall about 20 KM away.  It was 8:21 am.  The lot was nearly empty - we found the first parking space closest to the Wall.  From the parking lot, you could either hike up, or choose between two cable car companies to take you up there.  The shorter cable car offered a toboggan ride on the way down.  The longer one had cable cars both ways.  I had read that I could take the shorter cable car up, walk to the longer cable car, and down - by purchasing one way tickets on each, but round-trip is much cheaper.  I selected the longer cable car, which would take me higher up the mountain - in the direction I wanted to go.  I estimated that I would hike for about two hours.  Entrance ticket to the Wall 45Y, Cable car 80Y round trip. 

Not many tourists had arrived yet, so cable cars were going empty.  On the way up, as you rise above the tree line, you can see hills and valleys all around - including fall colors.  Then the wall appears in the distance.  Before you know it, the cable car drops you right at the wall.  It was very quiet and peaceful.  The sky was clear.  It was sunny and cool.  Every so often, at choice spots on the Wall, hawkers had set up stalls to sell food, drinks and souvenirs at exorbitant prices.

Rules for hiking are simple, really: decide where to go and then keep walking - one step at a time, until you get there!  

I wanted to go up to the top of the mountain to my left, so I could view Mongolia, or whatever was on the other side that the wall was built to protect against.  It seemed like a easy hike, because this part of the wall is well restored.  Once you begin walking, though, you realize that uniformity wasn't a consideration during restoration (just like, it probably wasn't during the original construction.)  Some steps were too steep, others almost flat; some too wide, some only 4-6" narrow.  That forces you look down and watch your step, and then stop when you want to look around and enjoy the beauty of the place.

The landscape is very scenic - right from the start.  Beijing, or any other civilization, is too far away to see from here.  You pick a direction and begin walking from one watch tower to the next - which are spaced according to the terrain.  Each is different, and in different stages of repair/disrepair.  When these were actually in use centuries ago, 10 soldiers use to live and guard each tower 24X7.  Every so often, there are steps cut out to exit the wall.  I noticed a trail running parallel to the wall and planned to take it on the way back.

Far away and high up, there was a watchtower with a large Chinese flag flying (see picture below.)  Previously, I had seen tour groups carrying such flags to keep everyone in the group together.  I thought that one such group was already up there.  But that turned out to be the highest point tourists are allowed to go.  The wall was closed beyond that point.  The last stretch, as you can see, is a really steep ladder with high and narrow steps.  You have to hold on to something to navigate, or sit down and climb like you did when you were very young.  As usual, coming down is more challenging than going up.  Up on top, there was this old lady selling food, drinks and souvenirs.  As soon as you reach up there, she congratulates you and offers her chair "FOR FREE" to sit and catch your breath.  She would then offer to take your photo with the flag "FOR FREE."  And then, regardless of whether you used her FREE services, she would suggest that may be we can help her out by buying something from her.  After usual bargaining, I bought some picture postcards with views of the wall in different seasons (see photo gallery.)

The end point of Wall at Mutian Yu

When I reached the top, there were four other people -  one young couple, and two other girls.  We had started about the same time, and reached there almost at the same time.  We were all winded and needed time to catch our breath.  We took pictures, changed clothes, drank water and relaxed a bit.  No one was in a hurry to return.  Few minutes later, I started down.  On the way back, I realized that it was late enough in the morning -- the tourist buses have arrived and it was noticeably more crowded and noisy.  As soon as I could, I exited the wall by taking the steps down and got on the trail.  To my surprise, there was absolutely no one on the trail going either way - and no signs.  The trail however runs parallel to the wall up to the cable car terminal, and possibly straight down to the parking lot.  I took the cable car down.  The driver was waiting for me.  We got in the car and left.  The time was 10:21 am - exactly two hours.  What a coincidence!  By now, parking lots were getting full, and farther away, tourist buses were lined up.  Good time to leave.

Back at Huairou, the car dropped me at a bus stop for #916.  The bus was fairly empty where I got on, but by the time we left Huairou town, it was completely full and people were standing.  We reached back at Dongzhimen around Noon.  I was pretty tired and jet lagged by now.  I decided to postpone the Tien'anmen Square and Forbidden City for the next day, and visit the Summer Palace instead.  I hopped on the train - taking outer Loop 2 to Line 4, and reached the Summer Palace station.  However, when you exit the station, there is no arrow pointing which way to go.  I noticed McDonald's on the left, and guessed that Summer Palace must be that way.  That's how you get around when you don't know the language, I guess.

Summer Palace was fairly quiet on that weekday afternoon (Ticket 30Y.)  It is however a huge park.  I walked around as much as I could, taking photos, and then returned back to the hotel by 4 PM, before the rush hour traffic.  Once back in the hotel, I relaxed, stayed up as long as I could and then fell asleep.

P.S.  At Mutian Yu, they were trying to sell me T-shirts showing Obama in green Chinese military uniform.  Would he accept that as a present?

Thursday, November 1:  A lot of things to do today before leaving for Nanchang this evening.  First on the agenda was a visit to IMA's (Institute of Management Accountant)  Beijing office, which is on Line 10, near the new CCTV Building (below.)  For the structural engineer in me, this building was an intriguing construction.  It is an administrative building, not a transmission tower, and not open to public.  The closest view you can get is from across the street.

New CCTV Building, Beijing

This morning, I left the hotel and walked about a mile East on Dongzhimen to the Line 10 "Agriculture Exhibition Hall" train station.  Dongzhimen is lined up with embassies on both sides, with fenced perimeters and security guards patrolling around the entire time.  My stop, Jintaixizhao, was just two stations away.  Being rush hour, trains were very crowded - and about half the train emptied off at my station.  As soon as you come out of the station, you see the CCTV building towering over you - just East of Dong San Huan Zhong Lu (East 3rd ring middle road).  Suddenly, my Chinese vocabulary exploded from 2 words: Nihao (Hello) and Tse Tse (Thank you.) to: Dong=East, San=3, Huan=Ring, Zhong=Middle, Lu=Road. 

I was going to the Kerry Center, on the opposite side.  IMA's office is on the 9th floor, directly facing the CCTV building.  I had a good view of the building from there.  I had volunteered to bring IMA's program to the university in Nanchang, JUFE.  I wanted to discuss how I could help, and to collect some marketing materials.  I also had to pay for my train ticket which IMA Beijing office had helped me purchase a few days earlier.  More on that later.  

From there, it was an easy walk further south to get on Line 1.  This is the same Line I would take this evening to go to Beijing XiZhan (West Railway Station)  Since I was on the train anyways, I decided to go to the Military Museum station first, and check out during the day how easy it was to go to Beijing XiZhan from there.  The walking distance would be about 4000 feet - first, walking 1000 ft West on Fuxing Road and then South on Yangfangdian Road.  Not too bad if you can read the street signs and your luggage has good wheels.  Once Metro Line 9 is completed next year, it would connect Line 1 to Beijing XiZhan.  For now, all I could see, without actually getting out of the station, was a big sign "Exit D Beijing West Railway Station" and a few steps going up.  Right then, I should have walked out of the station and traced the path to XiZhan in broad daylight.  I will regret it later this evening.

Entrance to Palace Museum

Any case, I still had plenty of sightseeing to do.  Taking the Line 1 train back, going East, I got off at Tien'anmen West station.   Like People's Square in Shanghai, or Potala Palace Square in Lhasa, or others elsewhere in the world, Tien'anmen Square is a large open public space.  Just South of W. Chang'an Avenue is the National Flag, Monument of the People's Heroes and Mausoleum of Mao Zedong.  To the North, enclosed in massive walls is Forbidden City, with its famous curved entrances and palaces nested within.  It looks just as impressive in real life as in the pictures.  Imagine that it was a "Forbidden City" once, and now it is open to all.  Busloads of people - locals as well as tourists, young and old - are walking around this place, now called the Palace Museum.  You purchase tickets (40Y) and enter from the South, and exit to the North at Jinshan Park.  From there, you can visit the Jinshan Park for 2Y, or go left (West) to Beihai Park (10Y.)  

I have noted ticket prices here for two reasons.  First, I believe that admission tickets is a great idea.  It makes people value the experiences they get by visiting those places; and of course, it generates funds to maintain the attractions.  Second, although tourists will buy tickets no matter what the price, it is another thing for the locals.  To me, 30-40-50Y entrance fees seem high for the locals - may be not.

The last place I was planning to visit today was the Temple of Heaven.  So I walked East from Jinshan Park to catch Line 5 going South.  Tiantan East Gate is just outside the Temple of Heaven.  As usual, there were no signs pointing to the Temple.  Once you get out of the station, turn right and within few steps, you see the Tiantan Park.  This is another large park, like Summer Palace, and is well maintained, peaceful place.  Being a weekday, it wasn't too crowded, though there were enough people around.  A 30Y Through Ticket admits you to the park, the Temple, Echo Wall and the Altar.  The covered walkway to the Temple was lined up with men and women playing cards and smoking.  Favorite social activity in many other places as well.  

Built in early 1400s, this temple was used by emperors of Ming and Qing dynasties to pray the god of heaven for good harvest.  Before praying, the emperors would stay in the Palace or Hall of Abstinence.  On the way back, I noticed many old trees supported with crutches.  Hmmm!  It is not just the humans growing old and frail...

It was late in the afternoon.  I had checked out of my hotel room in the morning, and had left my bags with the front desk until this evening.  My train was departing at 8:06 PM and I was supposed to be at the train station 45 minutes beforehand.  I figured that if I leave the hotel at 6 PM, I would possibly avoid the rush hour traffic.  Of course, I didn't know how bad "rush hour" was on Metro.  I was going to find out.  (In hindsight, I should have inquired about taking a taxi directly from the hotel.  May be they would know ways to bypass the traffic around Beijing.)

I knew that there would be climbing steps with my luggage to navigate Metro stations and changing trains.  My checked-in bag weighed 50 lbs.  My backpack just had the laptop - may be 10 lbs total.  I shifted another 10 lbs to my backpack, so it would be easier to lift the other bag up and down the stairs.  It would also be easier on the wheels of the bag going on sidewalks and surface streets for over a mile.  Good news was that to get to Line 2 today, I will be climbing DOWN all those steps that I had to climb UP the other day.  Also, Line 1 runs one level below Line 2.  Of course, eventually, I had to climb up all those steps when I get off at Military Museum.

Because Line 2 was a loop, and Beijing XiZhan was at diagonally opposite end of Dongzhimen, I could take Line 2 in either direction - inner loop (clockwise) or outer loop (Counter clockwise.)  As I entered the platform, Outer Loop train arrived and I got on easily with my luggage.  Once you are on the train, you only have to worry about being able to get out at your stop - Fuxingmen.  Well, that wasn't bad either.  Next, I had to go down one level to Line 1.  I was getting off at the 3rd stop - Military Museum, but the train goes 8 more stations beyond.  I was about to find out about the true rush hour traffic.

Fuxingmen station had uniformed police controlling the crowd on the platform for Line 1.  They were making sure that people were lining up properly in two rows at each door, not crowding the trains too much, letting people get out, and so on.  Occasionally, they would also push people inside so the train doors could close.  There were a few others with luggage like me, but most were daily commuters.  I was prepared to miss a train or two if necessary, but I got on the first train - barely.  Right in front of the door was a support column for people to hold on to.  There was no place to go further inside, nor did I want to because I needed to get off the train in 3 stops.  My bag therefore was in the way of everyone, and I could do nothing about that.  I am sure I got many quiet curses  from people around me.  Luckily, I got off the train soon enough, and without much hassle.

At the Military Museum station, most everyone was going the other way - only a handful of us going to Exit D for Beijing XiZhan.  I noticed one person with luggage - more like a carry-on.  I guessed that he was also going to XiZhan, and seemed to know where he was going.  I decided to follow him, but he got farther ahead while I was lugging my big bag up the stairs.


Once outside, again, there were no signs pointing to XiZhan.  I made an educated guess and turned left.  I saw the person with luggage far ahead.  Looks good, I thought.  I will just follow him.  But at the intersection with Yangfangdian Road, I lost him.  He must have turned left - I just couldn't find him anywhere.  Looking ahead, I saw a large impressive looking, brightly lit building some distance straight ahead.  Train Stations in China are pretty impressive buildings - I had seen the ones in Lhasa and LanZhou, so I thought that this must be the building for XiZhan.  The building was off to the right, so I crossed the street at Yangfangdian Road (wrong move - should have turn left instead.) and kept going straight on Fuxing Road.  Very few people were walking on this road, but there were traffic police at the intersection, and it is pretty safe in China, in general.  The next intersection happened to be "West 3rd Ring Road Middle" - remember the "East 3rd Ring Road Middle" I was at this morning?  I asked someone at the intersection where the train station was - he didn't understand what I was asking, but showed me how/where to cross the intersection.  Soon, I was at the large building asking where XiZhan was.  I realized it was NOT the train station, but the Electronics Building.  Panic time, again.  I had to find someone who could understand where I was trying to go, and then give me directions to get there.  Thank goodness, I had left the hotel earlier than planned.  I still had time.

Finally, some guy who understood enough English took me to a nearby bus stop, and told me which buses would take me to XiZhan.  He then waited until one of those buses showed up, put me on the bus and told me to get off at the second stop, and also told the driver where I was going.  Phew!  Within minutes, I was dropped off right in front of Beijing XiZhan.  I was going to Nanchang after all!  Nice people are everywhere, need I say more?

More about China Train Experience ...

China Train Experience

I love trains - oh, the nostalgia!  Although train travel has improved so much since my childhood, in terms of comfort and speed, there are fewer and fewer occasions to ride trains anymore.  Air travel is much more convenient and faster, most of the time.  Can you believe that I am yet to ride AMTRAK train anywhere in the U.S.?  The closest I came to an AMTRAK station was some 20 years ago when I went to pick someone up.  I did -and still do- ride BART, the Bay Area local trains, for many, many years, but that is not the same thing as long distance trains.

During my trips to India, I have managed to squeeze in a train travel here and there, including the famous Rajdhani Express between Mumbai and Delhi.  Australia and Europe are two other places (continents, actually.) that would be fun to explore via trains - some day!  (I did in Italy in 2013.)

I had heard a lot about China's super fast and bullet (Mag Lev) trains.  In 2011, taking a 48 hour train ride from Beijing to Lhasa - which is an engineering feat in itself because of the length of track laid on permafrost, mountain passes rising to 17,000 ft, and oxygen pumped in to train cabins to avoid altitude sickness - would have been a fantastic experience.  On my return trip, I was to take the train from Lhasa, down the Tibetan Plateau to LanZhou, GanSu - but then my plans changed.  

Mag Lev trains run regularly between Beijing and Shanghai - may be some day!  I did, however, manage to experience a short  ride on Mag Lev train (30 km, 8 minutes) going at 300 km per hour -for what, a minute or two?- from Shanghai PVG airport to the city.  See the green display showing time and speed in the picture below:

So (FINALLY!) during this trip, I decided to take the plunge and ride a super fast train from Beijing XiZhan (West Railway Station) to Nanchang.  These trains are air-conditioned, with reserved seating or hard/soft sleepers.  I had a choice of three super fast trains - all leaving between 7:30 and 8 PM from Beijing and reaching Nanchang the next morning between 7 and 8 am.  The fastest one (Z65) had only one stop in between.  The one I took, Z67, had three stops including Nanchang as the final stop.  It covers 1449 KM in about 11 1/2 hours - not bad for business travelers who can finish their business during the day in Beijing, get a nice sleep on the train, and be back home/work the next morning.  From Shanghai, the distance to Nanchang is 813 KM, which super fast trains cover in 6 1/2 hours.  

The tricky part is to purchase train tickets from overseas.  Chinese residents, using Chinese website in China can purchase tickets easily (usually 10 days in advance.)  Trains are generally crowded so there are no guarantees of getting a ticket on the train of your choice or the ticket class.  So you have to be flexible.  I did get the lower berth of a soft sleeper on Z67, my second choice - that too because someone in Beijing purchased it for me.  As it turned out, there were empty berths on my train, but that would be taking a huge chance!  Some travel agents in Beijing can purchase tickets for you and deliver to your hotel for 35Y - not a bad alternative.

Thursday, November 1: Back to my story in Beijing: after getting off the bus in front of the train station, I found that the main entrance was barricaded for security reasons, and passengers were allowed to enter from the side - narrow gates wide enough for just one person through which you squeeze in your luggage, and have your ticket and ID (passport) checked.  Escalator up one level brings you to this enormous lobby with waiting halls for each platform on either side.  Large indicator showed each train and platform number.  The lobby was crowded just like an airport, but much more noisy.  I reached the waiting hall for my train - the place was packed.  The indicator inside the hall listed next 2-3 trains, but ours was the next to board.  I made it here on time - 45 minutes before departure.  I checked with one of the attendants, who explained that boarding will begin in a couple of minutes and that I should stand in one of the many lines - there were 6-8 rows of people lined up to get on the train.  Others were sitting around, possibly for the following trains.  

Soon, they opened the gates and let people in after checking their tickets.  Everyone was going in the same direction, through double doors, a long hallway, a bridge and then finally down an escalator on to the train platform.  Everything was pretty orderly.  The escalator landed near the middle of the 16-18 car train - smaller numbers going left, and larger to the right.  At each car, an attendant (conductor?) was standing outside checking your tickets before boarding.  Most people were going left, towards the front of the train -where unreserved and reserved seating was.  It seemed that the attendants on that side were all males.  

I could read three things on my ticket: Z67 was the train number, car # 12, and #3 berth/coupe - not sure which.  I walked to my car to the right/back of the train, and noticed that very few passengers going that way.  Attendants on this side - all females - were waiting for the few stragglers like me.  The back of the train must be all sleepers, less crowded and therefore more manageable.  Somehow, most other passengers were already on the train and settled in their berths.

At car #12, this smart, petite, young attendant was waiting.  She had a book that looked like a business card holder with plastic slots.  She checked my ticket, pulled out a card key from a slot and gave it to me.  It had the same two numbers - 3 and 12 on them.  She placed my ticket in that slot.  I was expecting her to punch my ticket and return to me.  Then, she explained something to me in Chinese, which I did not understand.  Finally, she pointed me to board the train, and said something in English that I guessed (wrongly) meant "go to the 3rd coupe, berth number 12."  Since each coupe has four berths - two lower and two upper, the lower being slightly more expensive - the 3rd coupe had berth #12, an upper right berth.  So I went there.

Train designs look pretty much the same the world over.  Services are also very similar.  Your large luggage goes under the lower berth.  For upper berths, there is a small storage space overhead.  There is a reading light for each berth, small table at one end with a thermos with hot water.  Bedding is provided.  The door to the coupe can be closed and lights turned off at night.  Just outside, there is the narrow passage for the entire length of each car.  The train is connected from end to end; and there is a dining car in the middle.  Just outside each coupe, folding seats are available in case you want to sit outside.  It was already past dinner time, but next morning, I saw Dim Sum carts going through the train in case you wanted to purchase any breakfast.

I entered coupe #3.  There was one man on lower left berth, and a woman, who was talking on the phone, on lower right.  Top berths were empty - one being #12.  I thought the man and the woman were together, but they weren't.  I said hello to the man, and we became friends within minutes.  We found so much to talk about - he spoke English, he had studied in the US, been to San Francisco, was working as a Civil Engineer/Manager in Beijing, was visiting his brother in Nanchang, and had traveled by this train many times.  

First, he helped me with the logistics - my bag would not fit in the storage for the upper berth, and it wouldn't easily go under the lower berth either.  When asked, the attendant suggested that I leave the bag in the hallway - and that it would be safe there.  He didn't like the idea, so we managed to somehow push it under the lower berth.  He explained that the attendant will return our tickets before we get off the train, in exchange for the card key.  The original ticket is your proof of travel - the only way your employer will reimburse you for your expenses.

Right on time, the train started moving.  The woman on the phone finished her conversation and said hello to me.  That's when I realized that she was NOT with the man, as I had assumed.  A few minutes later, the attendant came by and asked me why I wasn't in my correct spot - which was lower berth #3 in coupe #1.  Through my interpreter friend, I found out that there was a couple who wanted the two empty berths in coupe #3, so it would be better if I went to my spot.  I didn't care whether I had an upper berth or lower, and was happy to have someone to chat with where I was, but agreed to move to coupe #1.  Later, I found out that the couple who wanted those two upper berths in coupe #3, didn't take them.  They were getting off at an earlier station and wanted to pay only for the distance traveled, but the attendant, following the rules, wanted to charge the full fare to Nanchang.  Hmmm..how would this transaction go in another country? 

Any case, because we did not want to disturb others in coupe #1 or #3, we decided to go to the dining car.  My new friend was boasting how good the dining car food is, and the variety they offer.  Both of us already had our dinners, but I was open to trying something new.  The dining car was fairly empty, except for one table with some people smoking.  We picked a spot farthest away from them.  The diner had none of the dishes that he wanted me to try.  We were explained that although the train runs back and forth every day, the dining car pantry is replenished only every fourth day - today being the last day.  Hence, most of the interesting dishes were not available.  We ordered something else and chatted until they were ready to close the diner.  It was about 11 PM.   We went back to our coupes and slept comfortably.

Friday, November 2:

I woke up around 5:30 am when the train made its first stop after leaving Beijing - Huangzhuo (1158 KM).  The train stopped for 5 minutes or so.  A few people got off.  After crossing the Yangtze river, the second stop was Jiujiang, about 150 KM later (at 1314 KM).  The train was about 15 minutes late by the time we left this station.  Next and the last stop was Nanchang.  My student assistant, Wenbo, was coming to the train station to receive me.  Earlier, I had texted to her that the train was on time.  In the end, it was delayed by about 20 minutes.  For the last hour or so, we stood in the passage way looking at the sunrise as the train passed by Poyang Lake, until we reached Nanchang (1449 KM.)

I got out of the train, said goodbye to my friend, walked to the middle of the train and then down the ramp (thankfully, no steps.) to a long tunnel under the platforms to the exit.  Wenbo and driver were waiting for me holding a sign with my name.  We walked to the adjacent parking garage, got in the car and drove out.  It was around 8 am.

Nanchang Train station is on the south side of the river and south part of the town.  JUFE (Jiangxi University of Finance and Economics) is about 18 KM northeast - across Nanchang city.  We had to pass through the Nanchang city traffic, which wasn't too bad, but it took some time.  About 40 minutes later, we reached the Guesthouse on JUFE campus.  Overall, the train experience was very good.  I am glad I did it. 

Nanchang and vicinity

Nanchang is the capital of Jiangxi Province in South part of China.  It is bounded on the west by the Jiuling Mountains, and on the east by Poyang Lake. Because of its central location relative to the Yangtze and Pearl River Delta regions, it is a major railroad hub in Southern China.  A branch of Yangtze runs through the city.  Nanchang has well developed waterworks, and lakes abound inside and outside the city.  Located near the Tropic of Cancer, Jiangxi enjoys a humid subtropical climate.  It rains through out the year - summer months are the wettest and Nov-Dec the driest.

Nanchang is a regional hub for agricultural production in Jiangxi Province. Rice and oranges are economic staples.  As for history, the Nanchang Uprising took place in Jiangxi on August 1, 1927, during the Chinese Civil War.  Later, the Communist leadership hid in the mountains of southern and western Jiangxi, hiding from the Kuomindang's attempts to eradicate them.  In 1935, after complete encirclement by the Nationalist forces, the Communists broke through and began the Long March to Yan'an.

Within the province are the world cultural heritage site of Mount Lu National Park, the world natural heritage of Mount Sanqing, the world geological parks of Mount Lu and Mount Longhu; and Poyang Lake, China’s biggest fresh water lake, is a member of the international Living Lakes Network.  The ceramics of Jingde Zhen is world renowned for its special qualities: pure as jade, bright as mirror, thin as paper, and sounds like the best musical instrument.  Yuyuan is hailed as the most beautiful village in China.

During one month (Nov 2012) I spent in Nanchang, there were opportunities to sightsee - here are Photos.